Its a funny thing, as you may have read I have access to both lights right now. Analogs tend to smooth out these signals. Not steady ( reminds me of using an analog meter and then going to a digital voltmeter) One has resolution they are not used to seeing. When the RPM function of this fancy light is called upon its all over the place, give or take 100 to 200. Funny thing now that you mention the multiple spark characteristic of MSD. Heck, I don't mind using the std inductance light. I will look into the compatibility of this light with the advance light. Yeah that was a lengthy post.sorry> I don't mean to be whenI first start out. Worse comes to worse, I can verify one against the other.and if need be look for a third. I do have a snap-on inductance light as well also a loaned from another mechanic. Its a Snap-on and its even got calibration tags hanging off of it when it was serviced. The light I have was a digital that will read tach and advance. I haven't seen an issue with inductive timing lights versus those that just hook up in parallel. If you're still intent on using that timing light, then check your total timing again using a timing light recommended by MSD or some form of conventional light. It's also easy enough to put the appropriate marks on the damper when it's off and just use the "0" on the timing pointer. A timing tape works well on the damper providing it's for the correct diameter. This works well for my foot brake car that I launch at 3200 rpm. For all my race engines, I recurve the distributors so that all the timing is in by 3000 rpm. One suitable procedure for total timing is to rev the engine until all the timing is in (mark has quit moving) and read the total amount of timing either on the damper or timing tag (depends what motor you're working on). If you're using an MSD box, then you also need to back up the timing at least an additional 2° to compensate for the extra burn time in the spark. I haven't looked at an MSD instruction sheet lately, but they use to specify what kind of timing light to use and those "total" reading lights were not on the list. I've solved customers problems with their engines by finding that their timing lights were automatically putting more timing into their engines than what they thought they had. Even my dyno shop is aware of this and instead of using the shop's dial-adjust timing light, recommends to their customers that they bring with them a conventional timing light. This is due to the various electronics in them and that knob that is supposedly scaled correctly to that decal. To my point, those dial adjust timing lights don't always read accurate. It isn't flooding so the floats are not too high. Not until I have the idle and timing set up. Haven't tried looking at idle vacuum settings yet. Initially I just gave it the basic 1 1/2 turns to each idle mix screw. Its a little fat too.still have the carb to do next. What are you guys with these cams idling at? I have the edelbrock RPM package including their cam.its a little lopy. At present I am about 900-1000 rpm warm and with 14 initial. Where/how does one end up determining what is ideal initial timing and also what their idle rpm should be set at. Never less than 10 or more than 20 static ( initial) advanceįord that like 34-38 total with iron heads may like lots less with alumimun heads. Should I forget about all this now and just see what rpm I have for 35 or so? I had hoped its all in by 3000 rpm based on my spring choice. But hell what do I know I am new on this stuffĪlso I should be seeing a total of 21 advance from the stop, plus 14 from static.giving a total of 35. So heres the catch I have reved it again with a bit more speed and it lines up at about 24 to 26 degrees with only 1500-1600 rpm.Is this the regular curve rate for these springs or does it seem a tad fast.ĭo I need to go for some stiffer springs or what? Seems to be coming in early. There are 2 adjust buttons to bring the degrees up or down.Īt 900-1000 idle, I have 14 on my indicator.Īt 15-1600 I can line up my zero with about 24 to 26 on the digital In my case at an idle, I have my display reading 14 and the 0 mark on the damper is bang on my timing pointer. So as far as I know, you hit the adj button/s to bring the mark to zeroon the damper. Today I am at the "let's finally see where the heck this thing is" stage since my FE break-in 2 nights ago. I have set up my MSD using the default blue advance stop bushing ( gives 21 degrees advance) Chose a light blue and a light silver spring as i wanted it all in by 3000 rpm I really need to know how to time my car by using it in a nutshellĬar is static timed now for 14 degrees. I have had the luck of having a friend drop off his snap-on digital advance timing light.
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